Wipeout

W

wiggytelsta

Member
Has anyone with a borescope checked their barrels when using Wipeout foam. The manufacturer claims as long as patches come out with color on them the barrel is still dirty! I'm cleaning a 6mm BR that I thought was clean and the patches are brown indicating carbon. Should I continue until no color is present?
 
mwezell said:
A brush helps tremendously with carbon. Don't be scared.
Click to expand...
yes a plastic or fibre brush. if you know you have a carbon ring mount 2 sections of an alum cleaning rod in a DRILL MOTOR, with a bronze brush and your fav carbon buster and power brush the throat till is gone. run a patch thru and you see chunks of carbon.
TO PREVENT a carbon ring, keep your case neck close to the end of the chamber neck! clean for carbon with a carbon cleaner as the first step in cleaning EVERY TIME. i have no carbon ring i do not use metalic brushes for normal cleaning. just one mans opinion..
 
rsmithsr2 said:
yes a plastic or fibre brush. if you know you have a carbon ring mount 2 sections of an alum cleaning rod in a DRILL MOTOR, with a bronze brush and your fav carbon buster and power brush the throat till is gone. run a patch thru and you see chunks of carbon.
TO PREVENT a carbon ring, keep your case neck close to the end of the chamber neck! clean for carbon with a carbon cleaner as the first step in cleaning EVERY TIME. i have no carbon ring i do not use metalic brushes for normal cleaning. just one mans opinion..
Click to expand...
Jointed aluminum rod:oops:Drill motor:oops:Bronze brush:oops:. YIKES.
 
R.G. Robinett said:
If you are not using the ACCELERATOR - adding it to the routine, per instructions, WILL dramatically speed-up the process. Initially - way back when it first came onto the scene, I was a disappointed SKEPTIC . . . until a pal made me follow the instructions, using the foam & ACCELERATOR. :D RG
Click to expand...

I use the liquid accelerator [thanks for the info a few years ago] on a loose patch followed by the liquid wipeout on a loose patch. Let set a few minutes and follow with a tight patch with Ronsonol or rubbing alcohol. At the range a few snug patches with rubbing alcohol after 10 or so rounds cleans out a lot of carbon. Lube the rear lug surfaces and continue blasting the berm into oblivion. It's all good. Accel on a tissue is great for cleaning the gunk from the barrel crown and bolt face.
 
I like the liquid W/O patch out and accelerator.

Here's a Supersecret bit of info....I use a 7mm nylon brush. The puny 6mm brushes are toast in No Time. The 7mm pushes a little hard a first but lasts a very long time and does a better job IMO.

Later
Dave
 
wiggytelsta said:
Has anyone with a borescope checked their barrels when using Wipeout foam. The manufacturer claims as long as patches come out with color on them the barrel is still dirty! I'm cleaning a 6mm BR that I thought was clean and the patches are brown indicating carbon. Should I continue until no color is present?
Click to expand...
The Wipeout is for removing copper, the Accelerator takes out carbon.
 
Switch to Patch Out and Accelerator. Easier to use. I wet 2 patches of Patch Out and run those through. Then on a brush 1/2 of each and run that through 10 times. Then 2 dry patches. And will need some oil or Lock-Ease, or Penephite.
ONLY USE WITH A STAINLESS STEEL BARREL! Know a guy who left it in a 1903 over night. Nothing but rust the next day. These are water based.
 
Last edited:
I run a loose patch of Accelerator, then a loose patch of wipe out. Let work for 5-10 minutes then a tight patch or 2 of 90% rubbing alcohol. Repeat as needed. Cleaned one this morning and no blue. Finish with a tight dry patch. I don't oil stainless barrels.
 
zippy06 said:
Switch to Patch Out and Accelerator. Easier to use. I wet 2 patches of Patch Out and run those through. Then on a brush 1/2 of each and run that through 10 times. Then 2 dry patches. And will need some oil or Lock-Ease, or Penephite.
ONLY USE WITH A STAINLESS STEEL BARREL! Know a guy who left it in a 1903 over night. Nothing but rust the next day. These are water based.
Click to expand...
sorry but why would you use a copper remover on a copper brush(bronze)...it aint the 50's or even the 60's, ya do not need a metal brush to get copper out.
i know..."you have always done it that way!"
 
"nowhere on "accelerator" does it mention "CARBON",,NOWHERE!...it does say it cuts cleaning time in 1/2. PERIOD
on "patch-out" it clearly says " "to dissolve copper, CARBON, & powder residue"

Careful, rsmithsr2 - when it comes to chemistry, a PhD Chemist may know something you don't . . . and you're "pissing" on one.o_O
;) RG

P.S. to OP and other interested folks: if you don't have one, get a Teslong bore-scope and learn [to recognize] what you're looking at - that will tell you how your cleaning process is working. I still prefer the somewhat better image quality via the HawkEye, however, especially for the cost, the Telsong is a sound investment.:D
 
Last edited:
I've never seen brown when cleaning. The wipeout smells like ammonia just like a diluted Sweets. The accelerator for me is good for removing carbon, powder residue and such. It obviously does something to loosen stuff in the bore, but I can't place the smell of the organic ingredient/s in Accelerator. I never thought Sweets was worth a crap for cleaning carbon. Whatever, I just use them like I described. I'm also a big believer that it's silly to waste energy trying to remove the last traces of something that will get replaced within the first few shots. I wonder how many more hours the OP has to go to be half done cleaning with Wipeout. If it's supposed to be effective at removing carbon it sure seems to be doing a crappy job of it.
 
R.G. Robinett said:
"nowhere on "accelerator" does it mention "CARBON",,NOWHERE!...it does say it cuts cleaning time in 1/2. PERIOD
on "patch-out" it clearly says " "to dissolve copper, CARBON, & powder residue"

Careful, rsmithsr2 - when it comes to chemistry, a PhD Chemist may know something you don't . . . and you're "pissing" on one.o_O
;) RG

P.S. to OP and other interested folks: if you don't have one, get a Teslong bore-scope and lean what you're looking at - that will tell you how your cleaning process is working. I still prefer the somewhat better image quality via the HawkEye, however, especially for the cost, the Telsong is a sound investment.:D
Click to expand...
sorry..just repeating the MAKERS notes on the bottles...... speed not a carbon buster
 
Obviously I've been doing it all wrong. Use w/o patch out on a couple patches for the easy carbon, then nylon brush til my arm gets tired. Then accelerator. I always thought that was to Accelerate the effectiveness of the w/o patch out......but...

My borescope tells me the same thing as Randy's.
 
Last edited:
rsmithsr2 said:
sorry but why would you use a copper remover on a copper brush(bronze)...it aint the 50's or even the 60's, ya do not need a metal brush to get copper out.
i know..."you have always done it that way!"
Click to expand...
Didn't see where 06 said anything about Copper brush in post #12.....???
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top