Problem with a Jewell Trigger on a Winchester Model 70

P

piniongear

New member
I have installed a Jewell trigger on a Model 70 and have a problem.
The trigger works and the bolt cocks but my problem is the safety does not engage.

I have installed a Jewell on a Winnie before and remember having the same problem.
To make the safety work on that rifle I had to disassemble the bolt and then found the 'butcher' I bought the rifle from had done some 'home gunsmithing' using a dremel tool to install a Jewell (which he removed before selling me the gun) and it was a mess. He sold me the gun saying the safety did not work, which was very true!
Pic of that mess......

originalcockingpieceMedium.jpg


I just bought a Tubb firing pin and a new cocking piece to install on that rifle.
The safety was made workable by carefully machining a half notch in the cocking piece for the safety lever to engage in.
Here is a pic of the notch on the replacement cocking piece.....

DavidTubbFiringPinandCockingPieceMe.jpg


But I have forgotten the details of how I did it.
Can anyone jog my failing memory as to what I need to do?
Thank you......pg
 
This is a very common problem when anything is replaced or adjusted on a Model 70.
You need to alter part of the notch so the safety will start to engage but you need make sure you don't remove material where it is needed to 'pull' the cocking piece off the trigger...but not that it pulls too much and is too hard... it's a tricky job. Maybe practice on the old pin you are replacing first and see if you can make it work.
 
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Thanks Dennis.
The one I did in the past (pictured) came out perfect but I remembered I 'crawled my way' to the point of material removal.
I guess I will remove the firing pin today and have a go at this one.
Perry
 
Today I managed to get the model 70 back together with the Jewell trigger installed.
But it was not easy.
Relieving the stock was the greatest pain of it all.
And now the finished result is I have a safety that is not safe.

I had to relieve the notch on the firing pin .036 to get the safety lever to engage.
Need036removed.jpg


After I got the stock relieved where the trigger would fit ......
I cock the bolt.
The safety lever moves to safe OK.
I move the lever off safe.
Pull the trigger and the gun fires.
That is all OK.

Now, the problem......
I cock the bolt.
I move the lever to safe.
I pull the trigger.
Gun does not fire but I hear a light 'click' and notice the bolt moves just a little sideways.
I move the lever off safe and the gun immediately fires without me pulling the trigger.

After several tries with the same result, I repeat the steps above with this difference.....
After cocking the bolt and moving the lever to safe I pull on the trigger.
The light click and bolt movement occur.
But now instead of taking it off safe I cock the bolt again.
I now take it off safe and the gun does not fire, which is good.

So.......... after the gun is put on safe and any pressure is placed upon the trigger, the gun will fire by itself when I move it off safe.
I can only guess that I ground too much off?
For some reason the bolt moves just a little when pressure is put on the trigger while it is on safe, which results in auto fire when taken off safe.

I certainly do not consider the gun is safe in this kind of condition.
I guess for the present I will just have to keep it pointed downrange and treat it as a loaded gun at all times.
Perry
 
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Yes Mike, I most likely took too much off.
I did it in stages at .006 at a time and the safety lever would not engage until I had removed .036, then it suddenly would engage.
I was sure I had it until I pulled on the trigger and released the safety.
I may try removing a bit more metal to see if that stops the bolt from shifting when it is on safe and I pull the trigger.
Nothing to lose now and if I have to buy a replacement firing pin and cocking piece from Tubb I can do that.
The other model 70 I did worked fine but that was with a new Tubb pin and cocking piece.
Perry
 
How about taking a small bit off of the Cocking piece where the trigger contacts the cocking piece, that will move the FP closer so the safety will have more lift to the firing pin.

Clarence

Edited to include: that first cocking piece has been ground on the front surface way too much. there is a NEED to have .250" pin fall to get good ignition a bit less would not hurt with the Tubb
 
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cdupuy said:
How about taking a small bit off of the Cocking piece where the trigger contacts the cocking piece, that will move the FP closer so the safety will have more lift to the firing pin.

Clarence

Edited to include: that first cocking piece has been ground on the front surface way too much. there is a NEED to have .250" pin fall to get good ignition a bit less would not hurt with the Tubb
Click to expand...

Thanks for your comment Clarence.......
I guess that would be the next step (removing a bit from the Cocking piece) but I have held off doing that because I do not want it to end up looking like the original.

The previous owner did that with a Dremel tool and it was a mess.
When I bought the replacement Tubb pin there was no notch provided on the new Cocking piece of course and I had to provide one.
That works perfectly.
So I thought to do the same with this install.
Had I been thinking I would have bought a new Tubb for this rifle and done the same thing as before, putting the original firing pin away in a bag.
Live and learn!
One thing I also learned ....... The Tubb Cocking piece is not hard at all and machines easily.
The original Cocking piece is very hard. It can be filed, but just barely.
I assume the Cocking piece and firing pin were assembled at the factory and the whole thing was then heat treated.
As you probably know the Tubb is a two piece affair and goes together with the firing pin using epoxy and a pin.
Thanks again......
Perry
 
Send it to someone with a surface grinder. You need to take a small abount from the cocking piece where is meets the trigger and you need to keep the correct angle there.
 
Jim Kobe.....
I agree with you, a surface grinder is the proper machine to do the job.
But I have no idea how many thousandths need to be removed, so what I plan to do is simply have a rifle that has no safety for the time being.
As long as I consider the rifle without having a working safety all will be OK.
Thanks for the comment.
Perry
 
If the Jewell trigger does not work or does not touch enough, there may be a problem with the brake power reduction. This can cause residual weight on the gun mount, loss of performance, or other problems associated with firing the gun.
slither io
 
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