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Thread: Barrel torque

  1. #1
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    Barrel torque

    How tight do you tighten the barrel ? inch pounds or foot pounds ?

  2. #2
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    I see from 40# to 150# on my searching

  3. #3
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    Varies by manufacturer; Kelbly I believe says 80 foot pounds.

  4. #4
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    One thing for sure, if it isnít tight enough, it wonít shoot.

    75/80 fit pounds should be fine

  5. #5
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    Kelbly uses 150ftlb

    I just went thru the whole "wrench" debate with them as I use their actions a lot. They're using a rear entry wrench but they can't get me one like it so I use a wraparound on their actions

  6. #6
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    BTW 150ftlb is too much IMO for 1.2 shanks.....marginal even for 1.25 which is why I've ALWAYS got 1.350 bbls in the pipe with the 2 mfrs that'll make 'em

    And why I'm recently in recpt of 64000 and 680 green loctite, trying it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackie schmidt View Post
    One thing for sure, if it isnít tight enough, it wonít shoot.

    75/80 fit pounds should be fine
    this should be perfect

  8. #8
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    I have a barrel on a XP100 rifle that I was going to put a different barrel on for a grandkid , But I can't get the barrel off , NOT ever with a 20" breaker bar . I have rear entry action wrench and I'm afraid I'l destroy the action taking the barrel off. The gun shoots shoots pretty good as is but he wants a different caliber.
    Last edited by ArtinNC; 08-18-2021 at 01:56 PM.

  9. #9
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    Just asking, how much is enough?

    If you look at the torque values for a grade 5 bolt and 1 1/16 x 18 you get 900 ft lb dry and 676 lubed, just for a reference. Granted this is not a nut and a bolt but we are talking values 10-15% of what they would stand. What is the danger of 150 ft. lb. of torque on a barrel/receiver joint? I take mine to 120 ft. lbs and am not aware that there is any problem. Is there something I am missing here? No peeing match please, I am just asking cause I don't know. Thanks, Red

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ArtinNC View Post
    I have a barrel on a XP100 rifle that I was going to put a different barrel on for a grandkid , But I can't get the barrel off , NOT ever with a 20" breaker bar . I have rear entry action rench and I'm afraid I'l destroy the action taking the barrel off. The gun shoots shoots pretty good as is but he wants a different caliber.
    Try heating the barrel tenon area with a heat gun before removing. When I removed the barrel from my old XP100 there was a lot of Locktite or some such compound in the threads. The heat should soften it enough to allow the barrel to turn.

  11. #11
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    Cool Barrel Torque

    Quote Originally Posted by fourspear View Post
    If you look at the torque values for a grade 5 bolt and 1 1/16 x 18 you get 900 ft lb dry and 676 lubed, just for a reference. Granted this is not a nut and a bolt but we are talking values 10-15% of what they would stand. What is the danger of 150 ft. lb. of torque on a barrel/receiver joint? I take mine to 120 ft. lbs and am not aware that there is any problem. Is there something I am missing here? No peeing match please, I am just asking cause I don't know. Thanks, Red
    I am quoting from the Rifle Accuracy book by the good Mister Tony Boyer on page 185 where he recommends tightening the action to approximately 50 ft-lbs of torque and suggesting the use of Copper Anti-Seize. But again what does he know.

  12. #12
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    A lot of the figures being quoted here are for a specific cartridge, the 6PPC. The OP doesn't specify a cartridge.

    50lb is probably sufficient for a 1.250 shank 6PPC, it is most assuredly NOT ENOUGH for say a 300WSM or something else with a much larger recoil impulse and much more bolt thrust than the 6PPC can possibly generate.

    Answering the question as stated is like asking an old racer "what size jets to use in a Holley"




    Now, for those folks who're having trouble with Rem700 (and Weatherby, and Tikka etc) using a rear entry action wrench...... this one is simple...... DITCH the rear entry wrench! There are wrenches made for this purpose, Wheeler and Brownell's to name a couple. A doller-two-ninety-nine ChiCom wrench set will get most the bolts-n-nutz off your Corolla but if you gonna' work on a log truck or a 'dozer you'se best get some bigger wrenches. Factory barrels are moderately tight but will spin off easily using a proper wrench. Go look at the Larry Potterfield videos from Midway to see the wrenches and some techniques but IGNORE the part where he starts banging with a hammer..... Hammers are for poundering and breaking things. Instead, use the advised outside wrenches and vises and a 3-4ft hunk of lightweight tailpipe for a cheater hannle. The things will ooze apart easy as pie

  13. #13
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    If you click on the link, and scroll down a bit, you will see a couple of pictures of the correct tools for removing a stubborn factory barrel from a Remington action. Even with these tools, there can be problems. A friend has learned to use a parting tool on the lug, splitting it, for the worst cases.
    https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/10...arrel-install/

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    702
    as AL points out different torque for different bbl dia and cartridge.
    we put a 6ppc on at 75 and almost could not get it off 3 months latter.
    case of well cut threads and a square face.
    my 300 wsm is 125, my 300 wm was 150, 150 on my 338 edge
    but 50 only works on small lite stuff

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyd Allen View Post
    If you click on the link, and scroll down a bit, you will see a couple of pictures of the correct tools for removing a stubborn factory barrel from a Remington action. Even with these tools, there can be problems. A friend has learned to use a parting tool on the lug, splitting it, for the worst cases.
    https://ultimatereloader.com/2018/10...arrel-install/

    LOL!!

    Just don't pay too much attention to what the ultimate reloader guy SAYS, look at the pictures and you'll be OK. This is the guy who wasted hunnerds of collective hours in this continuum Gordying in a barrel in a 3-jaw AFTER interviewing the man! He's all jacked up and earnest but his understanding of the world around him is rudimentary at best... to illustrate this, note that his home page photo refers to his crowning success, his "review of,"...his "ratings" if various reloading presses.

    SERIOUSLY???


    Dude don't know "rating" from hisass... he couldn't "rate" nor assess nor test the efficacy of various brands of pliers.... Nor could he reload a straight round if his life depended on it.......but he has money and accesses good tools from good folks.



    And he's a wikkid nice guy with a wikkid nice place.



    Boyd, if your buddy is still parting, his setup is inadequate.


    OK!!! Another innernet bet! Open to One-And-All!!!


    You send me your tight, your poor, your troubled barrels yearning to break free and I'll VIDEOTAPE myself removing them easily and unmarked for 100 bucks on my youtube channel...... You see me have to fight with or part one, I'll pay you 500 for your trouble and even use your name on youtube as one who proved silly ol' alinwa wrong.

    sounds like a win all-round!

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