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Thread: Advice on scope mounts?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    7

    Advice on scope mounts?

    'm a newbie buying gear for participation in F/TR. I've got most of the shopping list ticked off, but a few items remain, including scope base and rings. I hear a 20 MOA ramp is a good idea for long range, but after that I'm lost. One piece, two piece, manufacturer X,Y, or Z, and so on. I'd like something to fit a 30mm tube (Bushnell Elite 6500). Quality without going nuts would be nice too. Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    419

    You Don't Mention

    What action your using, a Ken Farrell 20MOA rail would work. Then get a set of rings to match the scope height you'd prefer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    393

    Scope mount(s)

    DougBN: Burris Signature rings and using the off-set inserts, 020+&- in both the front and rear rings will let you tilt the front of the scope down, getting close to what you would get with many of the tapered base mounts. An extra advantage is no ring marks on your scope tube. Not saying that's the answer, just something you may want to consider.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    7
    Thanks so far. I'll check it out. I particularly like the idea of no marks on the scope tube.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    washington.........STATE that is.
    Posts
    10,986
    Lissen to shuster!

    If you choose not to go with the insert style ring then the biggest favor you can do yourself is to go out and buy a set of Kokopelli alignment tools.

    There are no others to consider..... unless you make your own.

    IMO these alignment bars are essential to good scope mounting. Unless you use the Burris style rings. And lapping takes care of ring marks.

    Another option is to hog out your scope rings and bed them with epoxy. Messy and requires you to be fairly adept with your hands but will also provide a mark-free and stress-free setup.

    al

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Fresno
    Posts
    5,543
    Speaking of lapping and bedding...Along time back, I was talking with Speedy about this very subject, and he told me that he laps to 50% contact, and then beds for full stress free contact. As to hogging the rings out, I don't think that anything beyond a skim bed is required. The usual reason for hogging out is that the underlying material is too soft to take the forces generated by tightening fasteners without being distorted by compression. Having a thick shell of bedding allows for the distribution of force over a wider area, thus helping prevent distortion.

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