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Thread: Tubbs Spring setup

  1. #1
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    Tubbs Spring setup

    I recently bought one of Tubb's dual opposed firing pin spring setups for my 700 HBR gun. Nice setup I think.

    Pete

  2. #2
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    Twisted/stranded wire would be my choice for the optimum bolt action mainspring...aka Swiss/German recoil springs in pistols.

    Greased/oiled to eliminate corrosion/friction issues,it would last 1/2 a life time.

  3. #3
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    It's been awhile since I tried one. Boyd liked it, wonder if he still does. I had issues with it. My issues may not have mattered. I found there was quite a bit of friction in the center of the pin where the washer and two springs met as the pin was cycled. The springs didn't load flat and caused the washer to sit crooked which led to binding/friction right in the middle of the pin. It felt good lifting the bolt but my gut said the friction wouldn't be good for lock time. I attempted to polish and radius the washer and flipped springs end for end, spun them, etc... in an attempt to reduce or eliminate the binding but no combination worked to my satisfaction. I did nothing to quantify lock time so it is what it is and it may be fine but I didn't like it. Maybe someone can get someone like Greg Walley with the equipment to test it and see if the added friction makes a difference compared to a std spring. I think it's sitting in a bin on the shelf. If I still have it I'd be happy to send it to him for testing.
    Last edited by WSnyder; 02-27-2020 at 03:13 PM.

  4. #4
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    I don't recall

    Quote Originally Posted by WSnyder View Post
    It's been awhile since I tried one. Boyd liked it, wonder if he still does. I had issues with it. My issues may not have mattered. I found there was quite a bit of friction in the center of the pin where the washer and two springs met as the pin was cycled. The springs didn't load flat and caused the washer to sit crooked which led to binding/friction right in the middle of the pin. It felt good lifting the bolt but my gut said the friction wouldn't be good for lock time. I attempted to polish and radius the washer and flipped springs end for end, spun them, etc... in an attempt to reduce or eliminate the binding but no combination worked to my satisfaction. I did nothing to quantify lock time so it is what it is and it may be fine but I didn't like it. Maybe someone can get someone like Greg Walley with the equipment to test it and see if the added friction makes a difference compared to a std spring. I think it's sitting in a bin on the shelf. If I still have it I'd be happy to send it to him for testing.
    seeing any of those problems with the one I have. I de-bured, etc but mine sits pretty flat . I thought it way better than bellied springs.

    Pete

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Wass View Post
    seeing any of those problems with the one I have. I de-bured, etc but mine sits pretty flat . I thought it way better than bellied springs.

    Pete
    I saw the same problems and also the spring rate was not adequate.
    I believe ignition will go backwards compared to a standard spring.

    Personally I thought it was a second rate product and marketing hype was used to sell it.

    I had several emails with him and his staff and the information provided was never consistent and sometimes just plain incorrect.

    The calculations I did at the time say it is a 16 1/2lb spring at cocked height.
    Last edited by Michael Huebner; 02-28-2020 at 09:27 PM.

  6. #6
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    I checked the cocked weight on my Viper, and it was about 25# with a good solid whack when dry fired. As far as I can tell there is absolutely no lack of energy.
    The ends don't have to slide on each other because they are wound in opposite directions. As they compress, their respective rotations cancel out where they meet, which means that they do not turn on their outside ends.
    I am pretty sure they could be epoxied together and still work as designed.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boyd Allen View Post
    I checked the cocked weight on my Viper, and it was about 25# with a good solid whack when dry fired. As far as I can tell there is absolutely no lack of energy.
    The ends don't have to slide on each other because they are wound in opposite directions. As they compress, their respective rotations cancel out where they meet, which means that they do not turn on their outside ends.
    I am pretty sure they could be epoxied together and still work as designed.
    The Tubb Duo I had was for a Rem700 Long Action
    I did read what you had written previously, some time ago. In fact it was why I tried it.

    However the spring set I had in my possession was made of 50 thous wire and it doesn’t matter what you do to it, it wasn’t going to give me 25lbF. I have the calculations from David Tubb
    The concept sounded a good idea to me at the time but it didn’t turn out how I had hoped.

    If springs were easily manufactured I would get some made and give it another try

  8. #8
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    Did you measure the cocked weight, as assembled on your firing pin? I did not get any calculations from Tubb with mine. Could you scan and post them?

  9. #9
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    I pulled mine back out to revisit it. It's a short action and is ~23lbs compressed to what would be cocked position. The middle of the spring @ washer drags a lot IMO when cycled. To attempt to fix it to my satisfaction I'd have to regrind the ends of the springs to get the ends of the springs to sit flat and not cock off to the side. As it is now when it's installed all four ends of the springs are pushed to one side or another causing more snake to this setup than a standard spring. Maybe mine's a turd? Anyway it got thrown in the bin because I didn't think it was worth the time for me to try to fix it. Again maybe it doesn't matter.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by WSnyder View Post
    I pulled mine back out to revisit it. It's a short action and is ~23lbs compressed to what would be cocked position. The middle of the spring @ washer drags a lot IMO when cycled. To attempt to fix it to my satisfaction I'd have to regrind the ends of the springs to get the ends of the springs to sit flat and not cock off to the side. As it is now when it's installed all four ends of the springs are pushed to one side or another causing more snake to this setup than a standard spring. Maybe mine's a turd? Anyway it got thrown in the bin because I didn't think it was worth the time for me to try to fix it. Again maybe it doesn't matter.
    Mine was the same as yours .........and all it did was bind up.
    Apparently David Tubb said I was the only one who ever complained. Didnt take long to find people who tried them and put them in the didnt work bucket/bin like yourself.

    I got my money back from Brownells for the two sets I purchased.

    I guess people can make up there own minds, of the duo spring and if it works.

    Michael

  11. #11
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    Mine is nothing like that

    Quote Originally Posted by WSnyder View Post
    I pulled mine back out to revisit it. It's a short action and is ~23lbs compressed to what would be cocked position. The middle of the spring @ washer drags a lot IMO when cycled. To attempt to fix it to my satisfaction I'd have to regrind the ends of the springs to get the ends of the springs to sit flat and not cock off to the side. As it is now when it's installed all four ends of the springs are pushed to one side or another causing more snake to this setup than a standard spring. Maybe mine's a turd? Anyway it got thrown in the bin because I didn't think it was worth the time for me to try to fix it. Again maybe it doesn't matter.
    Mine fits close to the pin and as far as I can tell, works the very best.

    Pete

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