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Thread: Pillar to action mating surfaces

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  1. #1
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    Pillar to action mating surfaces

    I assumed that the pillars and action should have as much contact surface as possible, but read others keep a set amount of clearance for the bedding. Why wouldn’t we want the stock, action, screws and pillars to be as close to one unit as possible?

  2. #2
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    I'm very curious as well. I've done it both ways and am not good enough to say if one way worked better than the other.

  3. #3
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    In my case I'm trying to get the action to sit as tightly as possible into the bedding not onto the pillar. In theory I will agree that sitting on both is the ideal situation, but sitting into the bedding is what you're after. I generally use a flat top pillar and bed over that to get the action down tight. I've also seen pillars come loose from cranking down on the action screws when the pillars weren't against the action or against the bedding, so as always you can screw something up anyway you approach it.

  4. #4
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    For Remington size actions I made a fly cutter decades ago to cut the radius slightly under the action diameter. I mount the pillars tight to the action then bed as a single unit. No bedding needed on top of the pillars. I only bed a 5/8" strip down the middle of the action and the rear of the recoil lug. Essentially doing it this way the action is sitting in V-blocks.

  5. #5
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    So, Dave, you're not 'encasing' the entire action in bedding? Just the bottom? Do you have a picture of the bedding? I'd love to see it. I bedded one like that in the past and was told "you can't do it that way". LOL

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by parshal View Post
    So, Dave, you're not 'encasing' the entire action in bedding? Just the bottom? Do you have a picture of the bedding? I'd love to see it. I bedded one like that in the past and was told "you can't do it that way". LOL
    Id like to see a pic too. Always makes more sense.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    For Remington size actions I made a fly cutter decades ago to cut the radius slightly under the action diameter. I mount the pillars tight to the action then bed as a single unit. No bedding needed on top of the pillars. I only bed a 5/8" strip down the middle of the action and the rear of the recoil lug. Essentially doing it this way the action is sitting in V-blocks.
    Cool. Never thought of the strip of bedding. I like the v block idea. I bought some before I had a mill but didn’t care for their design. I’ll try this way. Thanks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tooley View Post
    For Remington size actions I made a fly cutter decades ago to cut the radius slightly under the action diameter. I mount the pillars tight to the action then bed as a single unit. No bedding needed on top of the pillars. I only bed a 5/8" strip down the middle of the action and the rear of the recoil lug. Essentially doing it this way the action is sitting in V-blocks.

    .....

    I don't have any pictures but I'll tell how I do it. I was in Northern Tool a long time ago and on the dollar table they had some 1" electrical tape. I bought a couple of rolls. Turned out it was very thin. I got the idea of taping up most of the action. Stocks continue to move and that includes fiberglass also as they continue to cure some. I install the pillars on the action. They leave a nice mark to act as a guide for the tape. I lay the tape on, front to rear and trim it tight against the recoil lug. Then tape the lug over, sides, bottom and front. Another piece in front of the recoil lug on the barrel and a piece of 2" masking tape covering the stock in front of the action. Add paste wax, install pillars, coat pillars with bedding compound, coat stock, then assemble. The tape comes up past the side of the stock and makes clean up a breeze. I put grooves in my pillars when I turn down the OD to fit 5/8" holes. I recommend using tape regardless of the contact width even if it's a 1/4" on the sides below the stock line. It makes clean up so easy.
    I'm having a tough time picturing this so please bear with my questions.

    The radius you're cutting with your fly cutter, is that a radius on the top of the pillars?

    The second post sounds like you're covering the entire bottom of the action with the tape so that pillars are "proud" of the stock by the thickness of the tape after bedding. Or, are you taping the sides of the action down to the bottom but leaving a 5/8" strip of "tapeless" action from pillar to pillar thereby having that bedding support the action along with the pillars?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by parshal View Post
    I'm having a tough time picturing this so please bear with my questions.

    The radius you're cutting with your fly cutter, is that a radius on the top of the pillars?

    The second post sounds like you're covering the entire bottom of the action with the tape so that pillars are "proud" of the stock by the thickness of the tape after bedding. Or, are you taping the sides of the action down to the bottom but leaving a 5/8" strip of "tapeless" action from pillar to pillar thereby having that bedding support the action along with the pillars?
    Yes the radius in on top of the pillar. I cover the entire action except for a 5/8" wide stripe from the recoil lug to the rear of the action passing through the pillars. Sometimes less works out better if you think through it. What's better than holding something in V-blocks.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by clowdis View Post
    In my case I'm trying to get the action to sit as tightly as possible into the bedding not onto the pillar. In theory I will agree that sitting on both is the ideal situation, but sitting into the bedding is what you're after. I generally use a flat top pillar and bed over that to get the action down tight. I've also seen pillars come loose from cranking down on the action screws when the pillars weren't against the action or against the bedding, so as always you can screw something up anyway you approach it.
    Thanks. I was trying to mimic a glue in one piece unit in my mind. I’m good at screwing up

  11. #11
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    Cool Pillars are for keep screws tight not to touch metal WOOD SKRINCS SCREWS LOOSENS

    Wood skrints
    Quote Originally Posted by mram10 View Post
    thanks. I was trying to mimic a glue in one piece unit in my mind. I’m good at screwing up

  12. #12
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    Get the chainsaw out Bill.
    Get the chainsaw out.

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