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#16
11-09-2009, 07:48 AM
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Ben is right. We are talking caliber specific indicator rods with bushings. What you need to remember is a .237 bushing will not fit in a .237 hole. If you have a .237 hole, you will probably have to insert a .2368 bushing and the rods have a .0002 clearance between the ID of the bushing and where it fits on the rod.
Butch 
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#17
11-09-2009, 08:32 AM
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Now I know that indicating the bore in with the chamber in has it's following. I just never could find a straight enough bore to pay this idea enough to give it more than a passing thought. But hey if that's what you want to do, far be it from me to try and argue anybody out of it.
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#18
11-09-2009, 03:52 PM
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Its just important to remember, nothing is perfect. The surfaces of
jaws can be ground in the machine, but thats not fool proof. Change your adjustment and things happen. Thats why using a soft and short material in the chuck works well, it cannot add as much stress to a barrel. A spyder adds very little stress. I have heard that a prominent gunsmith uses a spyder on both ends. That indicating both ends of a barrel and the shoulder cut in that set up as well as the threads. Allows me to believe that longitudinal vibrations will travel down the centerline of the action. this is based on nothing but a belief, but I like it. One final point, The shoulder must lock flat across its entire area. that is the only thing that allows the barrel to keep its P.O.I. Doing shoulders with a parting tool is kidding someone.
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#20
11-09-2009, 04:49 PM
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Put the reamer in a Dewalt, squirt some WD 40 on it and giver hell.
Or you can do this: 
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#21
11-09-2009, 05:20 PM
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So!
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#22
11-09-2009, 06:03 PM
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How many RPM's is that
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#23
11-10-2009, 09:59 AM
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About 120000.
Naw, just kidding. I chamber around 225 depending on reamer OD with a feedrate of .00025" per rev. That's my new "gen III" reamer holder that I made Saturday. Finally getting to the point where I can do some "real" stuff in the shop. Woo Hoo! This one indicated somewhere between .00015" and .0002" when I finished it.
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#25
11-10-2009, 01:39 PM
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Pacific Tool and Gauge is the only reamer I use.
ONLY.
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#28
11-11-2009, 07:26 AM
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Nothing on this reamer holder actually floats. The front ring is able to slide back and forth on the ground shoulder bolts but that's just to adapt to different reamer shank geometries.
As far as set up goes. I like sharing portions of what I do with others as some do find it helpful and I do genuinely enjoy helping others, however there are certain things that I prefer to keep proprietary and this is one of them. Regarding the actual muzzle, I use an indicator and shove it in to where the bullet is going to bite the lands on the breech end and then where the bullet is going to exit the crown at the other. I get it as close as I can to zero and then I give it hell. As a note. I once took a chance just to see what'd happen. I was building a gun for myself and wanted to see what'd happen if I only indicated the breech side during chambering. The barrel was a 6mm from Kreiger. I did all my usual steps for getting the breech on center. I allowed the muzzle end to hang in the breeze out the back of the spindle. No spider, no nothing. I threaded, bored, and reamed as usual. although the reaming part went a little slower because I didn't have pressurized oil running through the bore like I normally would because I didn't want to influence the crown end with additional bob weight hanging off of it. That gun still shoots great. I don't do this as a practice but I do enjoy experimenting with my own stuff just to see what will happen. Take it for what it's worth. Cheers and all the best. Chad Last edited by NesikaChad; 11-11-2009 at 07:46 AM.
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#30
11-11-2009, 11:41 AM
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Finished at 26".
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