A brief journey in accuracy troubleshooting

savet06

Mike Suhie
I wanted to share an experience I had that has opened my eyes to the importance of small details in rifle building being very important to 1/8th minute accuracy. I hope that it helps someone, maybe not directly with the same problem, but in the process of elimination when it comes to fliers or a gun that just won't shoot.
I bought a lightly used gun with a known action and Leonard stock several years ago and, though it would perform decently agging in the mid to upper-2's, it would never give me more than a .180 (and that was very rare) and would spit shots randomly. Once at 100yds it went down and left ~1/2" on the first shot and I was able to chase a .220 out of it - could have been the rest shifting on the pock-marked bench, but there were too many other times it happened to make it a coincidence.
I opened the back of the shroud up as the cocking piece was rubbing and still no improvement. I tried firing pin spring weights from 17lbs to 26lbs with spacers to create the extra spring tension. I turned my necks thinner and brushed them, cleaned primer pockets, different neck bushings, and burned incense while mumbling sacred incantations to the accuracy lords.

3 different barrels, different front and rear bags and tensions on each, bullets, powder, lapped the lugs, a call to the action maker who recommended trying a new scope, and then recruiting a very well known shooter trying to make it all work. Still couldn't get it to make small holes at 200yds in ideal conditions and always had issues with vertical and spit shots. Right next to me using the same bullets and powder this same shooter was drilling small 2's and 3's at 200yds with his setup, but could not repeat it with mine. Another well informed source had told us that a certain spring weight was ideal for this action, and I matched that as well to no avail.

I had taken the thing apart and put it back together again multiple times, the bedding was good, and even tried different triggers - the firing pin flowed freely in the shroud with no pressure, but, on one occasion, I pressed my thumb against the cocking piece, the firing pin spring not in place, and tried to slide the pin down into the shroud. I realized there was some resistance to the pin sliding freely in the shroud. Not a lot, but definitely not smooth.

I lapped the firing pin to the shroud with 600 grit compound, then polished the pin on a buffer, and now I could put as much pressure as my thumb could create and the pin would slide in the shroud with no hesitation. BINGO! somewhere along the line the firing pin had galled inside the shroud. Next outing same shooter drilled a small .3 at 200yds with little effort in changing seating depth and powder charge. I gave him a big hug and thanked him profusely for helping me push to figure this thing out.

I took it home and opened up the first 1/2 of the firing pin guide in the shroud, widened the cocking piece guide (found in Tony's book), and made sure there were no burrs.
Took it out again and drilled a small .1 3 shot group and moved the seating depth a little and hit a zero. Next 5 shot group measured .150 and that is being generous as I know that I would measure small so I have added a good .020.

Went out to 200yds and drilled a .250 center to center in heavy mirage, and it would have been smaller had I not held for a condition. Two 3 shot groups in the 1's (center to center not MOA) at 200yds in opposite conditions with a barrel that wouldn't have thought about less than a .4 previously. Will the load hold up over time who knows, but at least I know the damn thing can do it and, no, three shot groups don't tell the whole story, but I couldn't even get past the first page with this thing before!

I actually got a little misty eyed after the last group was shot and thought I would pass on my experience albeit a bit long-winded.

Hope this helps someone someday and good luck!
Mike
 
I hope so, and there are other stories my shooting partner shared with me that were just amazing at how small a thing e.g. a small nick on the sear of the trigger causing erratic groups where before the gun was winning grand aggs, bad reamers, firing pin fall that is .020 off, and the list goes on.
Good gunsmiths are worth their weight because I imagine a lot of top guys check this stuff before a gun goes out to a customer. I am planning on being one of those guys.
Mike
 
I've only owned one custom rifle I couldn't make shoot competitively over the twenty odd years I have been shooting Score Benchrest. Perhaps I didn't look deeply enough !
 
Mike, thanks for an excellent explanation of your 'journey'. I've learned to check everything because everything matters. :) The ignition system is the biggest area that gets taken for granted.

Just recently, I had a bolt that didn't open as smoothly as I knew it could. The problem was the helix angle of the firing pin spring coils. Once I changed to a spring with less helix angle, it was a night and day difference.

Good shootin' -Al
 
I wanted to share an experience I had that has opened my eyes to the importance of small details in rifle building being very important to 1/8th minute accuracy. I hope that it helps someone, maybe not directly with the same problem, but in the process of elimination when it comes to fliers or a gun that just won't shoot.
I bought a lightly used gun with a known action and Leonard stock several years ago and, though it would perform decently agging in the mid to upper-2's, it would never give me more than a .180 (and that was very rare) and would spit shots randomly. Once at 100yds it went down and left ~1/2" on the first shot and I was able to chase a .220 out of it - could have been the rest shifting on the pock-marked bench, but there were too many other times it happened to make it a coincidence.
I opened the back of the shroud up as the cocking piece was rubbing and still no improvement. I tried firing pin spring weights from 17lbs to 26lbs with spacers to create the extra spring tension. I turned my necks thinner and brushed them, cleaned primer pockets, different neck bushings, and burned incense while mumbling sacred incantations to the accuracy lords.

3 different barrels, different front and rear bags and tensions on each, bullets, powder, lapped the lugs, a call to the action maker who recommended trying a new scope, and then recruiting a very well known shooter trying to make it all work. Still couldn't get it to make small holes at 200yds in ideal conditions and always had issues with vertical and spit shots. Right next to me using the same bullets and powder this same shooter was drilling small 2's and 3's at 200yds with his setup, but could not repeat it with mine. Another well informed source had told us that a certain spring weight was ideal for this action, and I matched that as well to no avail.

I had taken the thing apart and put it back together again multiple times, the bedding was good, and even tried different triggers - the firing pin flowed freely in the shroud with no pressure, but, on one occasion, I pressed my thumb against the cocking piece, the firing pin spring not in place, and tried to slide the pin down into the shroud. I realized there was some resistance to the pin sliding freely in the shroud. Not a lot, but definitely not smooth.

I lapped the firing pin to the shroud with 600 grit compound, then polished the pin on a buffer, and now I could put as much pressure as my thumb could create and the pin would slide in the shroud with no hesitation. BINGO! somewhere along the line the firing pin had galled inside the shroud. Next outing same shooter drilled a small .3 at 200yds with little effort in changing seating depth and powder charge. I gave him a big hug and thanked him profusely for helping me push to figure this thing out.

I took it home and opened up the first 1/2 of the firing pin guide in the shroud, widened the cocking piece guide (found in Tony's book), and made sure there were no burrs.
Took it out again and drilled a small .1 3 shot group and moved the seating depth a little and hit a zero. Next 5 shot group measured .150 and that is being generous as I know that I would measure small so I have added a good .020.

Went out to 200yds and drilled a .250 center to center in heavy mirage, and it would have been smaller had I not held for a condition. Two 3 shot groups in the 1's (center to center not MOA) at 200yds in opposite conditions with a barrel that wouldn't have thought about less than a .4 previously. Will the load hold up over time who knows, but at least I know the damn thing can do it and, no, three shot groups don't tell the whole story, but I couldn't even get past the first page with this thing before!

I actually got a little misty eyed after the last group was shot and thought I would pass on my experience albeit a bit long-winded.

Hope this helps someone someday and good luck!
Mike
Very good description of little things that made a difference...... Bet the guy that sold it to you would be sad...
 
I have heard folks talk about " Good Platforms". I've always thought there were some bad ones and some better than others and credited barrels as the real difference. It is difficult to comprehend such small items being a make or break situation but then it has to be the little things, most of the time, the big things are or seem to be obvious.
 
I wanted to share an experience I had that has opened my eyes to the importance of small details in rifle building being very important to 1/8th minute accuracy. I hope that it helps someone, maybe not directly with the same problem, but in the process of elimination when it comes to fliers or a gun that just won't shoot.
I bought a lightly used gun with a known action and Leonard stock several years ago and, though it would perform decently agging in the mid to upper-2's, it would never give me more than a .180 (and that was very rare) and would spit shots randomly. Once at 100yds it went down and left ~1/2" on the first shot and I was able to chase a .220 out of it - could have been the rest shifting on the pock-marked bench, but there were too many other times it happened to make it a coincidence.
I opened the back of the shroud up as the cocking piece was rubbing and still no improvement. I tried firing pin spring weights from 17lbs to 26lbs with spacers to create the extra spring tension. I turned my necks thinner and brushed them, cleaned primer pockets, different neck bushings, and burned incense while mumbling sacred incantations to the accuracy lords.

3 different barrels, different front and rear bags and tensions on each, bullets, powder, lapped the lugs, a call to the action maker who recommended trying a new scope, and then recruiting a very well known shooter trying to make it all work. Still couldn't get it to make small holes at 200yds in ideal conditions and always had issues with vertical and spit shots. Right next to me using the same bullets and powder this same shooter was drilling small 2's and 3's at 200yds with his setup, but could not repeat it with mine. Another well informed source had told us that a certain spring weight was ideal for this action, and I matched that as well to no avail.

I had taken the thing apart and put it back together again multiple times, the bedding was good, and even tried different triggers - the firing pin flowed freely in the shroud with no pressure, but, on one occasion, I pressed my thumb against the cocking piece, the firing pin spring not in place, and tried to slide the pin down into the shroud. I realized there was some resistance to the pin sliding freely in the shroud. Not a lot, but definitely not smooth.

I lapped the firing pin to the shroud with 600 grit compound, then polished the pin on a buffer, and now I could put as much pressure as my thumb could create and the pin would slide in the shroud with no hesitation. BINGO! somewhere along the line the firing pin had galled inside the shroud. Next outing same shooter drilled a small .3 at 200yds with little effort in changing seating depth and powder charge. I gave him a big hug and thanked him profusely for helping me push to figure this thing out.

I took it home and opened up the first 1/2 of the firing pin guide in the shroud, widened the cocking piece guide (found in Tony's book), and made sure there were no burrs.
Took it out again and drilled a small .1 3 shot group and moved the seating depth a little and hit a zero. Next 5 shot group measured .150 and that is being generous as I know that I would measure small so I have added a good .020.

Went out to 200yds and drilled a .250 center to center in heavy mirage, and it would have been smaller had I not held for a condition. Two 3 shot groups in the 1's (center to center not MOA) at 200yds in opposite conditions with a barrel that wouldn't have thought about less than a .4 previously. Will the load hold up over time who knows, but at least I know the damn thing can do it and, no, three shot groups don't tell the whole story, but I couldn't even get past the first page with this thing before!

I actually got a little misty eyed after the last group was shot and thought I would pass on my experience albeit a bit long-winded.

Hope this helps someone someday and good luck!
Mike
I bought a used Rem 700 bolt this winter to examine for potential problem areas. The bolt I have is likely a Kiff but is well made nevertheless.

After reading this I did the exercise of pushing the cocking piece down the shroud. Yessah, it is rougher than a cobb! I have about 45 more days until I will be, once again with my guns. Guess what will be the first thing looked at.

This got me to wondering if laser printed shrouds might be a better alternative to the metal shrouds we use? I do not have nor will I ever have a laser printer. If a shroud could be printed using some sort of slick plastic like material, It might be a great option?

Pete
 
I bought a used Rem 700 bolt this winter to examine for potential problem areas. The bolt I have is likely a Kiff but is well made nevertheless.

After reading this I did the exercise of pushing the cocking piece down the shroud. Yessah, it is rougher than a cobb! I have about 45 more days until I will be, once again with my guns. Guess what will be the first thing looked at.

This got me to wondering if laser printed shrouds might be a better alternative to the metal shrouds we use? I do not have nor will I ever have a laser printer. If a shroud could be printed using some sort of slick plastic like material, It might be a great option?

Pete
It was something that crossed my mind as I am sure others - a teflon shroud would be a really cool thing to try out or maybe a teflon lined shroud. I think I read somewhere that someone had tried one made out of delrin which would be interesting as well.
Those little things all add up for sure!
 
Mike, thanks for an excellent explanation of your 'journey'. I've learned to check everything because everything matters. :) The ignition system is the biggest area that gets taken for granted.

Just recently, I had a bolt that didn't open as smoothly as I knew it could. The problem was the helix angle of the firing pin spring coils. Once I changed to a spring with less helix angle, it was a night and day difference.

Good shootin' -Al
That is very interesting, Al. I would be curious to know the details of this, but perhaps on a different platform to protect the maker. I intentionally left the manufacturer from this thread as they are great to work with and had no culpability in this issue. The action overall is excellent! This gun, initially had a 13lb spring in it - the bolt lift, as you could imagine, was amazingly light and I thought I had found nervana...but then it wouldn't shoot. I found out the spring was light, ordered a new one and that one was also too light. Finally got the right one in there, but then dropped the weight down to about 18lbs per a trusted source and it is behaving like a bench gun should now.
I am still waiting to prove the gun in competition, but it is nice to know it can shoot small when I get the load right.
 
That is very interesting, Al. I would be curious to know the details of this, but perhaps on a different platform to protect the maker. I intentionally left the manufacturer from this thread as they are great to work with and had no culpability in this issue. The action overall is excellent! This gun, initially had a 13lb spring in it - the bolt lift, as you could imagine, was amazingly light and I thought I had found nervana...but then it wouldn't shoot. I found out the spring was light, ordered a new one and that one was also too light. Finally got the right one in there, but then dropped the weight down to about 18lbs per a trusted source and it is behaving like a bench gun should now.
I am still waiting to prove the gun in competition, but it is nice to know it can shoot small when I get the load right.
I bought a used 700 bolt off the internet this winter to study. Couldn't stand not having a real gun part to play with. This one had a badly scared pin caused by the spring and the pin was rough where it slid through the shroud so I have had parts pieces to fumble around with. The spring it it measured 20 pounds. Anxious to get back home now. 33 more days to go here.

Pete
 
I had the thought this morning that hard chroming firing pins might aid in their being more slippery?

Pete
 
I had the thought this morning that hard chroming firing pins might aid in their being more slippery?

Pete
I think it would, but it might be the wrong solution the the problem. If your firing pin is striking or rubbing against something (other than the 'band' rubbing against the inside of the bolt) that's probably in need of correcting, rather than masking with a more lubricous surface. However, you got me thinking about a (thin) delrin, or other lubricous material as a sleeve on the firing pin shoulder... Anyone done anything analogous?

GsT
 
I took the first steps in trying a shroud made of delrin impregnated with PTFE having ordered the material and made a mock up with some other acetyl type plastic I had around the shop. I am not sure I will see any difference in the overall performance, but I can't let this one go and have to give it a try! Not sure how I would sleeve the firing pin shoulder, but that would be interesting as well. Lining the entire inside of the bolt with this stuff would be interesting if it were possible. Might be diminishing returns to this sort of stuff, and I imagine a lot of it has been thought of and tried - John Pierce has made some allusions to coatings on firing pin springs so I imagine he has been down this road as well.

I made a modification to my seb rest by putting teflon tape on the aluminum body that the stock plate of teflon presses up against in the past (so now instead of teflon on aluminum it is teflon on teflon). I can tension the front screws as hard as I want and the joystick moves freely just with more resistance and no movement during recoil or returning to battery, and no "stiction" iit is as smooth as you would like (checked with a DTI set up in my mill...it was a loooong winter during COVID).
 
I took the first steps in trying a shroud made of delrin impregnated with PTFE having ordered the material and made a mock up with some other acetyl type plastic I had around the shop. I am not sure I will see any difference in the overall performance, but I can't let this one go and have to give it a try! Not sure how I would sleeve the firing pin shoulder, but that would be interesting as well. Lining the entire inside of the bolt with this stuff would be interesting if it were possible. Might be diminishing returns to this sort of stuff, and I imagine a lot of it has been thought of and tried - John Pierce has made some allusions to coatings on firing pin springs so I imagine he has been down this road as well.

I made a modification to my seb rest by putting teflon tape on the aluminum body that the stock plate of teflon presses up against in the past (so now instead of teflon on aluminum it is teflon on teflon). I can tension the front screws as hard as I want and the joystick moves freely just with more resistance and no movement during recoil or returning to battery, and no "stiction" iit is as smooth as you would like (checked with a DTI set up in my mill...it was a loooong winter during COVID).
Good Stuff Mike.
 
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